Using Water Contaminated with Cyanotoxin for Non-Consumable Purposes?

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See even a little of this? Don’t use the water.

This article is part of the discussion on cyanotoxin Don’t Drink the Water.

When you find out your water is contaminated with cyanotoxin, your world will change.  This water is dangerous and causes all sorts of troubles, even for showering or bathing.  Unfortunately, you may never know it’s contaminated without the gas chromatography mass spectrometry testing.  Since you can’t keep one in your back pocket, you must prepare and be on the alert.  You must take precautions.

Do not bathe or shower in water contaminated with cyanotoxin.  Someone, who shall remain nameless, told us it is okay to shower with it if you have no cuts or skin breaks on  your body, you are healthy, and you are an adult if the toxin level was very low.  Given the additional information below, that bit didn’t provide any comfort.

If you have to use it for doing dishes, all dishes and utensils must be effectively rinsed with undiluted chlorine bleach.  It’s the only thing that removes (not destroys) it from the dishes.  Even that is not a guarantee of safety.

Not one article has been found that suggests it’s safe to wash your clothing with it.  And, since it concentrates the toxin as water is removed, it seems as if it would only remain in the clothing, and then be on your skin and you can’t get away from it.

Algae can get into the system and contaminate the water with toxins.

And, most disturbingly is that water containing cyanotoxin is unsafe for both livestock and irrigation.  Your animals will die from the exposure, and you wouldn’t want to eat any animals contaminated with cyanotoxin.  When used in irrigation systems, it is airborn and inhaled by field workers.  This causes any number of dreadful outcomes.  Further, studies show that plants irrigated with contaminated water poses a great threat.  The toxin not only gets in the plant, but it concentrates in the plant through the root system so that eating a small portion of the plant would be deadly.

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In short the only way to get it off of something is to wash with full strength bleach, and that isn’t a sure thing.  It remains on surfaces.  It is both a poison and a carcinogen.  It is harmful to every living creature that encounters it.

In short, there is no safe way to use water contaminated with cyanotoxin.  When you use it, you know you are taking a risk and one has to determine if the risk is worth it or if there is some alternative water source to be found.


Saqrane, Sana, and Brahim Oudra. “CyanoHAB Occurrence and Water Irrigation Cyanotoxin Contamination: Ecological Impacts and Potential Health Risks.” Toxins. Molecular Diversity Preservation International, n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2016.

Milligan, Allen J., Assistant Professor of Botany and Plant Pathology, OSU. “Potential Impact of Cyanobacteria on Crop Plants.” Potential Impact of Cyanobacteria on Crop Plants. Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management, n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2016.

“Drinking Water and Sanitation.” SpringerReference (n.d.): n. pag. Web.

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Cold Weather Clothing / Layering

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Cold Weather Clothing / Layering
1. Cotton Kills! What it actually does is trap moisture and is very poor at insulating.
2. Heat is lost from the body through exposed skin. This can be your head, neck, hands, or your legs if your one of those Viking types that wears shorts in the winter. Cover all exposed areas to maintain warmth.
3. Loose clothing in layers is good because it allows warm air to be trapped between the layers.
4. Stay dry! Although some materials will maintain a certain amount of insulating properties…your body will cool quicker when it is wet…up to 25 times quicker than dry.
5. In order for the body to be able to properly regulate temperature…you must be hydrated and fueled. This means you must drink plenty of water and eat snacks, even in a cold environment.

Base Layer: A base layer is designed to ‘wick’ moisture away from the body where it can then evaporate. The base layer should be close fitting to allow proper wicking of moisture.
– Polyester, Polypropylene, and wool (merino)
Middle Layer: The middle layer should be an insulating layer. It can also be multiple layers of insulating materials depending on the weather conditions. They should be somewhat loose fitting to allow pockets of air to be trapped.
– Wool and Fleece are the most common insulating middle layers.
Outer Layer: This layer should be windproof and waterproof. The function of this layer is to protect you from the elements such as wind, rain and snow. This layer is designed to keep you and your other layers DRY.
– Waterproof, Waterproof Breathable (Gore-Tex)
Foot Layer: This is the most often overlooked layer of protection and possibly the most important. In a cold/wet weather environment you want to have a waterproof boot. If your feet get wet..its hell trying to get them dry again. I personally invest in a quality waterproof boot that is also insulated…because I don’t like me feet being cold.
Extremities Layer: A hat for your head. Choose one that will block the wind. A hat may look warm until a 20 mph wind is blowing cold air on your ears. Buy something of quality that is windproof and preferably insulated. Gloves- Different activities demand different products, but as a rule I like a waterproof insulated glove. Cold and wet hands are a major bummer. Socks – Polyester/Polypropylene for a base layer, wool for the outer layer. This not only wicks moisture away from your foot but the inner layer of sock will move inside the outer layer and helps prevent blisters while hiking. Scarf- protect your neck from the cold/wind.

Fleece – good insulator…even wet, dries quickly, absorbs little moisture, similar to wool…but lighter
Wool – good insulator when wet, transfers moisture well, feels warm even when significantly wet
Down – great warmth to weight ratio, can pack very small, very lightweight, loses insulating ability when wet, dries slowly, expensive
Synthetic – (Thinsulate, Primaloft) not as good warmth to weight ratio, absorbs little moisture, dries quickly, good insulator when wet, typically less expensive than down
Cotton – inexpensive, poor insulator…especially when wet, poor moisture transfer
Silk – is soft against the skin, good insulator, good moisture transfer. It is a natural product and can be a little expensive.
Waterproof – (plastic) typically used for raincoats, completely wind and waterproof, allows no moisture in or out. Some items have zippered underarms to allow release of moisture or condensation.
Waterproof Breathable – (Gore-Tex) also known as ‘Hard-Shell’ This material has a porous membrane that repels liquid water but allows water vapor to escape. Typically expensive.
Water Resistant – also known as ‘Soft-Shell’ This material typically has a water repellent coating. It is not completely waterproof. Soft shell jackets breathe well, are softer and more comfortable and typically much cheaper.
New products and technologies are constantly coming into the marketplace. Newer coatings and materials are making jackets more waterproof, more breathable, lighter and less expensive.
Jason E. Hill
No Joke! Survival
Preparations for the Average Family

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